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Edition 7: Design, Built and Civic

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Heredad Ugarte Cincuenta, 2009, 13.5 p e r c e n t ($14), a one hundred percent Tempranillo, aged in French oak for 10 months. The name comes from how many years Dad ran the business. Unfortunately despite another 90-point WA rating, the Ugarte had features of bad Chilean wine, an unnatural chemical bouquet reductive. This was something that my Aunt Rhoda would have made. On the more traditional side we started with Artardi Vinas de Gain, 2000, 14 percent ($29), a Tempranillo from 40- to 60-year-old vines aged in 40 percent new French oak for 12 to 14 months. It had a weird-looking composite- HYLAND

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