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Edition 3: La Serenissima

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GREAT MEALS, GREAT SPLURGES Da Fiore (Calle del Scaleter; beware other places with similar names) is the summit of great cuisine in Venice. I still dream of the Antipasto misto di mare, which comes in several courses. It is followed by exquisite pasta, and then simply roasted fish. Sublime but they make you feel perfectly at home. Al Covo (Castello 3968) Astonishing mix of traditional Venetian materials and brilliant imagination in the cooking. All very Italian���but be sure to introduce yourself to the wife of the chef, who is from Texas! Corte Sconta (Calle del Pestrin) Perfection of the simple: spot, every morsel fresh, colorful, lively, delicious. a beautiful WINE BARS, LITTLE TASTES The drill here is a sequence of small dishes profoundly characteristic of Venetian cuisine: creamy dried cod on toast, fresh anchovies, sardines in sweet and sour sauce, little meatballs, a few olives, a little prosciutto, a little cheese, and on and on ���. Consumed along with short glasses of fresh, local wine. Or big goblets of great wine: these places tend to offer everything from the lightest tipple to the grandest vintage. Some of my favorite places for this irresistible ritual: Al Volto (Calle Cavalli 4081) Do Mori (Calle Do Mori 429) Cantina del Vino gi�� Schiavi (Fondamenta Nani 992) H HYLAND

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