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Edition 3: La Serenissima

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D uring the years when I visited Venice as a tourist, I firmly believed you couldn���t get a good meal there. No surprise, considering that, like other casual visitors, I tended to pass my mealtimes in the kind of brightly lit eatery where routine dishes of previously frozen fish are named in four (often broken) languages. That all changed during a memorable stay as Visiting Professor at the University of Venice. My preference was for the opposite ends of the culinary spectrum: an occasional meal at one of the grand temples of Venetian cuisine alongside far more regular visits to the unique sort of wine-bar-cum-snackery that is the hallmark (often quite unnoticed by tourists) of the great city by the lagoon. Herewith a few samples from each of these two opposite categories. . . HYLAND

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