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Edition 22

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HYLAND is best to devote a full day to its galleries, film center, and the Architecture/Design museum. Since it is more centrally located than Tjuvholmen—and be-cause trams go everywhere in Oslo (symbolic of modernistic, high- speed accessibility, the Flytoget express train to the airport is a luxurious convenience)—this area can also serve as jumping off point for visiting the city's most-inviting cafes and restaurants. KaffeFuglen ("the coffee bird") is a cool fusion of espressos, exotic cocktails, and retro Scandinavian furniture. Try the dandelion cocktail, a mix of aquavit, dandelion root, bee pollen syrup, lemon, burdock bitter and egg-white, all shaken into a pillowy dream. It is sub- lime! So is the artistry at Tim Wendelboe's coffee roastery. Passionately dedicated to discovering the "tastiest coffee beans by working with farmers in Latin and South America," Wendleboe has become an urban legend by offering slowly-brewed delights in a calm, Grunerlok- ka neighborhood retreat perfect for considering that all- important next move—choosing where to eat among Oslo's bounty of inviting restaurants. A brasserie with a relaxful, rustic aura, Lille B, the sister restaurant to the equally appealing, Michelin-starred Bagatelle, this bistro offers appetizing snails, Norwegian beef, cured reindeer, along with a great variety of wines. Le Benjamin is another gem; Ylagali (meaning hunger) features such Nordic treats as turbot baked in hay, and chanterelle, with sea-weed and mussels; at Grunerlokka's informal Delicatessen tapas are served with generous pourings of sparkling Cava; and as for very-atmospheric

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