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Edition 17 Influence

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Murmullos in Esquel, or planting an avenue of slender trees at le Diagonal, Estancia El Rincon, Mar del Plata, Thays respects, above all, what nature has placed before him. A nature buff of a different ilk and vocation is Argentina's most famous chef, Francis Mallmann, who likes to grill Argentina's world famous meats and potatoes over fires in the open air. The sight of Mallmann stoking one of his outdoor wood fire pits reminds me of a glassmaker tending his furnace, so intense is the heat Mallmann employs for his gaucho grills. Mallmann characterizes Argentine cuisine as a fusion of the gaucho and Indian communities with European influences. Indeed, Mallmann began his career preparing French haute cuisine, then, in 1995, in an epiphany, did a volte face and returned to his Patagonian roots. One of Mallmann's favorite cooking tools is the simple, ancient plancha or chapa, a cast-iron griddle, which heats up Above: Garden by Carlos Thays HYLAND

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