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Edition 13: Make, Break or Sustain

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R oberto Consorsi, an ingenious expert on ecclesiastical costume and design at Gammarelli tailors, will be the first to tell you that "on an incremental basis, Papal fashion has changed over the centuries, each Pontiff leaving his own special mark: a buckle here, a buckle not; a red shoe here, a red shoe not, an erminetrimmed robe, or not, a mantiple, or not." He has curated rare print collections presented in museum exhibitions depicting the huge array of costumes worn by the Papal Court at various times. Today, Roberto Consorsi and his colleagues at Gammarelli still craft splendid vestments for the Roman clergy, albeit much simpler and more restrained. Theirs is a noble pursuit, one that historians could argue extends beyond the Pontifex Maximus to the Imperatore Maximus. HYLAND

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