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Edition 13: Make, Break or Sustain

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. . .eight courses, all of them refined. . . Eigth course: dessert pannacotta the occasional nod to the tried and true favorites of mainstream America. Continental antecedents may lurk, but Burke does not shrink from employing American classics, especially when it comes to using the freshest, native, American ingredients. His third course, elaborately dressed wedge lettuce, is a distant cousin of my favorite of the same ilk at Outback: bacon lardons, tomato, corn, onions, dried cranberries and Russian dressing (probably ideal for a Putin state visit). Interestingly, Burke's sommelier, Heidi Turzyn, recommends a Chateauneuf du Pape blanc, Chateau Rayas 2001 (Rhone, France). HYLAND

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