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Edition 11: A Crossroad & Destination

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T Veuve Cliquot founded in 1772 La Grande Dame Brut 2004 Reims, France he perfect package, a splendid presentation box with stitched black cover that flips open by simply pulling a tab, reveals a rich yelloworange interior, contains a bottle of Veuve Cliquot, fresh, sparkling and with a singular taste. It arrived a few days before New Year. Then, like manna from heaven, a second bottle of Veuve Cliquot arrived. But, this time the box had the appearance of fine black lacquer with a round ���VCP��� medallion straddling its opening. Both vessels possess astute design and equally excellent craftsmanship. Only Veuve Cliquot and a small circle of other fine champagnes may successfully employ such refined packaging. Their champagnes rival the packaging in quality, thereby justifying the effort. H HYLAND

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