of Languedoc, a 2011 Grolleau, Chateau de la Roche,
Touraine Azay le Rideau.
Next on the menu was Pinci, a very thick spaghetti, al
dente, bathed in a mixture of flakes of smoked bacon,
heirloom carrots and ricotta. Proper preparation is an
alchemy that wrests from
each vegetable, pasta or
meat new flavors, new
perfumes. I am not a pasta
eater, except for udon
noodles, but the Pinci
convinced me to broaden my
horizons. Pasta anyway is a
different affair when cooked
according to native Italian
principles, a tasty mound
rather than a daunting heap.
I was treated to a 2009
Greek vintage, Malagouzia,
Domaine
Gerovassiliou,
Epanomi.
My wish for more beets was granted in one of the
main courses, which came next. Seared scallops were
accompanied by marinated beets, baby turnips and
cracked pistachios. The scallops were buttery, salty,
satisfying, plain yet nuanced. Accompanying this dish
was a gratifying Bandol, a Mouverdre/Grenache, from
Castell-Reyboard, France 2010. At a neighboring table I
HYLAND