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Edition 9: Champion Main Street

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of Languedoc, a 2011 Grolleau, Chateau de la Roche, Touraine Azay le Rideau. Next on the menu was Pinci, a very thick spaghetti, al dente, bathed in a mixture of flakes of smoked bacon, heirloom carrots and ricotta. Proper preparation is an alchemy that wrests from each vegetable, pasta or meat new flavors, new perfumes. I am not a pasta eater, except for udon noodles, but the Pinci convinced me to broaden my horizons. Pasta anyway is a different affair when cooked according to native Italian principles, a tasty mound rather than a daunting heap. I was treated to a 2009 Greek vintage, Malagouzia, Domaine Gerovassiliou, Epanomi. My wish for more beets was granted in one of the main courses, which came next. Seared scallops were accompanied by marinated beets, baby turnips and cracked pistachios. The scallops were buttery, salty, satisfying, plain yet nuanced. Accompanying this dish was a gratifying Bandol, a Mouverdre/Grenache, from Castell-Reyboard, France 2010. At a neighboring table I HYLAND

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