My feast commenced with slices of Arctic Char, a relative
of smoked salmon. These were garnished with razor thin
threads of market beets, a favorite vegetable of mine. I
longed to see what Amali could do with larger quantities
of this blood-red treasure. The char was served in dill
crème fraiche and topped with a hearty peasant sliver
of pork crackling.
That very afternoon, I had been craving an heirloom
tomato. Therefore I was thrilled to find heirloom tomatoes,
plural, on the salad and appetizer menu. The heirlooms
arrived: miniature, a dark vinous red, dressed simply
with market basil, sea salt and olive oil, with the faintest
hint of lemon. Frankly, I could have eaten a one-note
dinner consisting of this wonderful viand, but it was not
to be. The heirlooms were paired with a hearty wine
HYLAND
