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Cerro Anon Rioja Riserva, 2004, 14 percent ($20), from Bodegas Olarra. It���s a Tempranillo blend, very dark in the glass and with a rather lovely bouquet, much more complex and for $2 more, a better buy than the Lan Riserva. At $20 it was the buy of the tasting. Buy a case and cellar it, enjoying it over the next few years. Muga Seleccion Especial, 2005, 14 percent ($37). Similar in color to the Cerro Anon but without the bouquet. It was a relatively short wine, somewhat disappointing. It may be too young or too tannic but it was hard to discern the fruit. Some wines do go through a dumb period and it may well be that this wine will taste better in a few years. The aftertaste was good and our rating was incomplete. Trying it the following morning was not much of an improvement. After the tasting we had a 1996 Muga which was excellent. It was one of the best Spanish wines we���ve had recently so the 2005 may just be too young to drink at this stage. The 1996 Muga and a few of the mid ranged 1996 bottlings from Abadia Retuerta have been good buys for some time. You occasionally see them at auction and if the price is right, it���s a worthwhile drinking wine. H HYLAND