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HYLAND Sweet Vermouth, Grand Marnier and angostura bitters, all with an orange twist. But to feel the full ambiance of Paris at home, Le Royale Laduree is an essential, a perfumed compote of Champagne, fresh strawberries and rose syrup. One could stay all day at Laduree, sipping one elixir after another. The denouement of this royal progress can be only one thing: the Rendez-Vous, composed of Champagne, lemon juice, syrup—and yes—Absinthe. I didn't know the latter was even available in this country. A hilarious episode in Dawn Powell's novel, Angels on Toast, a sendup of Manhattan artists and writers in the 1940s, features an impoverished denizen of our city rustling up a vat of this prized liquid on his stove. To drink Absinthe in the rather richer environs of Laduree is to imbibe Paris and Manhattan all at once. H