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here are moments in the day, particularly in the heat of summer, for pure delectation, the judicious consumption of sweet delicacies and drink rather than the hearty viands of other seasons. For such pleasures, the Parisian import, teahouse Laduree in SoHo, is the place for repose and refreshment. Whether you enjoy a classic mixed cocktail, or a piquant mixture of fine teas and syrups, the experience is romantic, refined, above all, civilized. The original Laduree, founded in 1871 in Second Empire Paris at 16 rue Royale, was the inspiration of Ernest Laduree's wife, Jeanne Souchard, who created a tearoom with a special advantage over the cafes which were becoming popular: women were welcome, free to come at any time. The tearoom was a work of art as well as HYLAND T