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above water. Diving is for a select few. How was the diving? The diving was spectacular. Raja Anpat was elite divers' splendid secret until just now. Go before word gets out! I saw the wonders of an aquatic universe. Papua New Guinea is part of an area of the globe not frozen during the last Ice Age. It is the so-called "nursery" of the coral reefs, the richest in the world. To see a Carpet Shark move, at first seemingly part of the ocean bottom, is to witness nature's brilliance at disguise and defense. How was the food and service? Food and service was good, very caring. We frequently had fresh fish and vegetables from local markets. Zegrahm Expeditions provided exceptionally caring and attentive staff. Credit: Jack Grove