B urgundy is the ultimate destination for wine
lovers. Seductive, sensuous, sophisticated, and some might say
– delectably complicated. e truth is, Burgundy is no more
complicated than a jigsaw puzzle, (a popular analogy) as it only
requires a little patience to put the pieces together.
Broadly speaking, the "pieces" of Burgundy fall into three
catagories – grower, terroir and vintage. Unfortunately, the
over-hyped aspects of vintage often inform our perception
of Burgundy. While that may have been reasonable a decade
or two ago, it is significantly less important today. A new
generation of talented growers, with a modern approach to
vineyard management, have transformed vintage from a quality
statement to a personality nuance. Vintage no longer rules –
the grower does.
Knowing the best growers, or as the French say, vigneron, is
key to finding a Burgundy you love – and more important than
vineyard prestige. ere is no promise of greatness in a vineyard
– only potential. Grower diligence is critical to exploiting the
essence of site.
e third "piece" of the puzzle is truly the most complicated, but
is at the heart of what makes Burgundy so deliciously complex
– it's terroir. ere is no direct English translation of the word
terroir, it refers to the total growing environment of the vine.
By Geri Tashjian
HYLAND
