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Edition 20: Equity by Design

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ostume jewelry has come into its own as never before. The sheer fancy, the sense of play that may be exercised with non-precious materials is liberating for the designer. Just because a piece is faux doesn't make it cheap. As anyone knows who scours flea markets for vintage Chanel—I have always regretted not buying, for $200.00 a pair of earrings, one engraved with the moon, the other, the sun--prices have soared into the thousands; the perception of it is that it is good as gold. Other major designers who have made costume jewels include Chris- tian Dior, Karl Lagerfeld and Givenchy, to name a few. A less well-known but masterful French designer of the 1940s and 1950s, Line Vautrin, who died in 1997, made ornaments of resins, glass and gilt bronze—her chosen Line Vautrin (1913-1997) Aquarium, France, ca. 1942- 1950 Bronze doré box with blue-green enamel C HYLAND

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