HYLAND
Greenwich Village is not the variegated place it used
to be. Yet there are outposts, still, that are the stomping
grounds of artists and writers, enclaves of creativity—albeit
the chic vintage—rather than bald Mammon. The Tuscan
trattoria, Il Cantinori, is one such. Ensconced now for thirty
years, it is the domain of consummate restaurateurs Steve
Tzolis and Nicola Kotsoni, who have since engineered
a complement of elegantly simple restaurants—Periyali,
with the fare of Kotsoni's native Greece; Amali, nouvelle
Italian in a severely chic setting; and most recently, Bar
