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Edition 16: Constant and Refreshing

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W hen I ski, in Zurs, Austria, there is no experience more comforting than returning from the chilly slopes to a superlative hot meal at the Hotel Zurserhof's restaurant which serves a sophisticated range of cuisine, from French to Asian, Italian to Austrian. At times, I prefer to dine in the Stube, with its traditional alpine decoration, especially on Christmas Eve or Christmas day when as many as 26 of us gather at one table, illuminated by a real candle-lit tree in the corner under the low wooden-beamed ceiling. A brass band in livery followed by Santa Claus in Edwardian garb and poems, speeches and songs provide shimmering revelry from another age, now, still in our own. Here is a Zurserhof Christmas Eve menu, one Santa Claus would circle the globe for: HYLAND

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