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Edition 16: Constant and Refreshing

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A brass band in livery followed by Santa Claus in Edwardian garb... Every day at the Zurserhof is a holiday; its diurnal menu is drawn on occasion from the humble rural food of Austria but mostly from the finest of global nouvelle cuisine. One of its splendors is the unpretentious Wienerschnitzel, a superb veal cutlet, pounded and breaded, served with lemon juice, accompanied by French fries or small boiled potatoes with flecks of parsley and a Gewurztraminer. For fans of Fleisch, the Zurserhof is the zone: a delectable roast suckling pig, Viennese roast chicken, veal or pork; and a definitive array of sausages, including bratwurst and Bavarian Weisswurst, that delicacy of minced white veal garnished with lemon and parsley, a favorite of mine at restaurants at Residenzplatz in Munich, where I once enjoyed this very fare with the eminently interesting pair, Henry Geldzahler and Raymond Foye. The Zurserhof also prepares a formidable cheese buffet, the finest in the region. H Christopher Hyland Zürs Hotel 75, 6763 Zürs, Austria Phone:+43 5583 25130 HYLAND

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