results. The one is known as the Baltimore
black stew; the other, as the Trenton stew,
this manner of cooking terrapin originating
in an old eating club in Trenton, N.J. I must
say I agree with the Philadelphians.
And now, leaving the fish, we come to the
pièce de resistance of the dinner, called
the relévé. No Frenchman will ever willingly
cook a ladies' dinner and give anything
coarser or heavier than a filet de boeuf. He
will do it, if he has to, of course, but he will
think you a barbarian if you order him to
do it. I eschew the mushroom and confine
myself to the truffle in the treatment of the
filet. I oftentimes have a filet à la moelle
de boeuf, or à la jardinière. In the fall of
the year, turkey poults à la Bordelaise, or
à la Toulouse, or a saddle of Southdown
mutton or lamb, are a good substitute. Let
me here say that the American turkey, as
found on Newport Island, all its feathers
being jet black and its diet grasshoppers,
is exceptionally fine.
Now for the entrées. In a dinner of twelve
or fourteen, one or two hot entrées and
one cold is sufficient. If you use the truffle
with the filet, making a black sauce, you
must follow it with a white sauce, as a riz
HYLAND
