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Edition 13: Make, Break or Sustain

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Ninth course: lollipop tree These mouth-watering courses are paired, respectively, with Chateau d'Yquem 1988 (Sauternes, France); Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Ramonet 2002 (Burgundy, France); Trimbach, Clos St. Hune, Riesling 2001 (Alsace, France); and La Tache, Grand Cru, Domaine Romanee-Conti 1996 (Burgundy, France). The crescendo of this symphonic, read complicated, meal—there is a lot of math involved here, believe it or not, not unlike music—is the main entrée, Bronx Veal Filet Cut with pistachio candies, wilted spinach and veal jus. HYLAND

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