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All of Burke's wine pairings are French, with the exception of a Madeira with dessert. Probably, politically, a nonstarter, with masterful California wines on offer, not to mention Oregon, Washington and, lest we forget, New York State (still with a hefty electoral vote!): I'm thinking one of New York's ice wines with dessert. The Burke wine repertoire is, however, classic, hearkening to traditional state dinners, where French taste governed. Lobster, my favorite, marks the first course, in a tempting concordance of Lobster Dumplings with lobster mousse and a Moroccan glaze. Burke seeks literally to "amuse the mouth, "; his French label for this course is "amuse bouche". George VI and Roosevelt would feel at home with another personal favorite of mine, Pol Roger, 'Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill" 1998 (Epernay, France) the Champagne suggested for this course. England's war time Prime Minister consumed this Pol Roger at the White House during the darkest days of the war. Four courses further build upon Burke's fascinating fugue, all the while progressing to the apotheosis: Course 2, Foie Gras Panna Cotta with port gelee, fried grape and raisin walnut crostini, a Max Ernst for the table; Course 4, Smoked Pastrami Salmon with julienned vegetables, blini and crème fraiche; Course 5, Mustard Crusted Tuna with citrus segments and avocado; and Course 6, Pasta Garganelli with pressed prawns and asparagus. HYLAND