choice: we rotate between the Thai restaurant Spice, the
Italian le Zie, the Spanish El Charro, the Greek Peryali, the
Italian, Il Cantinori, the Cuban Sandwich place on Eighth
Avenue and the Australian Outback. (The latter serves
a delicious wedge of iceberg lettuce, dressed with blue
cheese and bacon.) We appreciate our food, not taking
a morsel for granted, but sometimes we are jaded, even
baffled.
Wandering into Wholefoods with Christopher Hyland, I
was greeted by a large bin of fiddleheads. I remembered
cooking them with jerk sauce when I lived near Fairway
on the Upper West Side. Christopher took some
persuading; he wasn���t sure the fiddleheads were edible.
Nevertheless, he not only curated the menu, he cooked
it: fiddleheads saut��ed in olive oil, lemon and salt, with
a touch of pepper, herbed tilapia and rosemary roasted
potatoes. He also chose a bottle of wine, a Pouilly-Fuisse,
ironically called ���Marie Antoinette,��� as in ���Let them eat
cake.��� Fiddleheads are far removed from gateau.
I cannot wait for next year to repeat this meal. H
HYLAND
