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A frequent clue in the Times crossword puzzle is "Italian wine region." 4 letters. A better clue would be "region producing unbelievably wretched, sweet sparkling wine poured at weddings but fortunately rarely swallowed." Same four letters. Asti. As in Spumante, which is Italian for sparkling. Asti still appears on lists in Italian restaurants but there is actually an Italian sparkling wine that is inexpensive, youthful, crisp and clean. It ain't champagne but we were surprised at the quality over price ratio. It is called Prosecco. Double the letters and more than twice the quality. Prosecco is produced in the Veneto region in Italy's North East. The region has now received the DOCG, Italy's most desirable wine HYLAND

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