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Edition 1: This Isn't All There Is

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Caribbean and in the Mediterranean in the 1980s, although at least two substantial yachts we had chartered, Valdivia and Algiola, were later lost at sea. On a month-long cruise of the central Mediterranean on Fair Lady, one of the last great 1920s motor yachts still afloat, my niece, Consuelo, and nephew, Cabot, in Druid-like attire, made offerings of apples and peaches off the stern to Poseidon. The crew startled them with a reply from below. On this voyage I offered the god a stone from Mary���s Garden, Athos. She was, after all, the ���Star of the Sea��� to many mariners. The parish we attended in the 1950s bears the same name. We encountered many dramatic moments at sea, but were afforded protection. Leaving the Sporades for the Cyclades we cruised in nine and a half beaufort winds. At Gavrio, on Andros Island, we awakened to forest fires threatening the port. There, ferocious Meltemi winds reached near ten beaufort in the harbor overnight, forcing our yacht to seek refuge in the sea beyond the breakwater. Unable to board, blinded by dirt stirred by the wind, we slept ashore. On several occasions, the foam at the top of the waves surrounding the boat danced in small cyclones. As I watched these kinetic aquatic sculptures I realized how symbolic they were of the island chain itself. It is centered in the vast Greek sea with winds and cultural crosscurrents coming from all directions. With its religious focus on the island of Delos in the middle of the archipelago���thus the name Cyclades, circles. Repeated circles carved in stone as well as near-abstract human figurines are emblematic of the earliest HYLAND 41

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