Orounoupolis on the Thracian coast, we met a Greek friend,
Costis, who would accompany us for the beginning of our
trip.
Two days later we entered the thirty-one mile long (fifty kilometer), 4.3 to 7.5 mile wide (seven to twelve kilometers)
semi-autonomous peninsula of Mt. Athos. It is a self-governed
monastic state, spiritually under the direct jurisdiction of the
Ecumenical Patriarchat of Constantinople. There are twenty ancient monasteries, twelve sketes (satellites) and scores of
hermits living in near or total isolation. The mountain that
gives the entire peninsula its name rises sheer from the sea at
the southern end of the peninsula.
Athos houses the largest concentration of Byzantine art in
the world. A community of monks from different countries,
Athos is the last remaining link to an intact ancient world that
would still be recognized by a Byzantine emperor.
Even an agnostic or atheist could not fail to be moved by the
formidable commitment to faith we witnessed. At Athos, one
truly enters a divine milieu, with an entire ���garden��� dedicated
to Mary, mother of Jesus Christ.
The other-worldliness of the experience is emphasized by the
requirement of presenting a passport with special visa upon
entering and exiting, the use of the Julian calendar and time,
and the almost complete absence of commercialism. Only ten
non-Orthodox men of all faiths and creeds are given visas to
enter Athos per day. We were humbled to have four of those
visas.
HYLAND
11
