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Edition 1: This Isn't All There Is

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Desert, the night I spent at Anafi was the warmest I have ever experienced. The wind that blew through our cabin was at one point so hot that it made me think of an oven; it was almost suffocating. Having moved from my cabin to the aft deck, I awakened in the morning surrounded by a sopping wet cotton canvas cushion. I consumed two bottles of water before breakfast. Rounding the eastern end of Anafi heading north towards our next destination, Amogos, one sensed in the rising swells the treacherous potential power of the legendary, brutal seas that surround that island. O ften shrouded even in the height of summer by an ominous crown of clouds, Amogos comprises a long, narrow mountain chain. Below those clouds, up a sheer one thousand foot south-facing cliff, is a large white monastery, Panagia Khozoviotissa. When we climbed a mountain in the area above it and looked down into the sea, we saw no sign of its presence affixed to the cliff below. Its interior comprises a series of small chambers affording numerous intimate encounters with religious imagery. The physical sense of security derived from being in these chambers would certainly have enhanced one���s relationship to the Almighty, especially in times past when being in situ was far HYLAND 53

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